During the lunch stop of the taxi-brousse ride from Toliara back to Fianar, I witnessed a sad phenomenon. I was just standing outside, since I had snacks and didn’t want to eat at a hotely, and there was a man and his son standing next to the vehicle. The kid was maybe 3 years old, although it’s hard to judge. The man said to the child, “Bonjour, Madame”, trying to teach him how to say hello to foreigners in French. It was kind of cute, and I though, “Oh good, teaching kids things in another language…that’s good.”. I just smiled and maybe said bonjour. However, I was quite dismayed to hear the next phrase he decided to teach the little kid for future run-ins with white people: ”Donnez-moi l’argent, madame.” (Give me money, Madame) Rather than teaching his child a general language skill, or something useful, he was teaching his child how to beg from white people. These people weren’t starving. It was just a sad display of the attitude that many Malagasy people seem to have about vazahas.
There are plenty of children who beg in Fianar. Leaving the grocery store there are always at least 2 that chase me for half a block before giving up. It’s hard to tell their actual situations of course, but I’m convinced that many of them have been trained to beg out of habit rather than true need. Why does this happen? It seems that an attitude of dependency has permeated this country, and that many people learn to ask vazahas for help rather than learn how to help themselves. I suppose one could look at the father teaching his child to beg as sort of a micro-view of the larger picture of development in general. At the micro level, parents are teaching their children to beg from vazahas. At the macro level, NGOs come and go, help with certain projects, but when they leave, it’s up to the Malagasy people and government to maintain sanitation or environmental standards (or whatever an organization has helped with). The government definitely doesn’t always pick up the slack – after the FCE (train) rehabilitation project, the government has not made efforts to maintain it (or privatize it, another option). There’s a dredge sitting in the port of Mananjary (maybe 40km from Manakara, but closer than that I think) that was bought with something like $100,000 of aide money with the aim of getting the port of Manakara up and running again. The port in conjunction with the railway could be a very real way for people living between Fianar and the coast of Manakara to transport goods (thus helping income, food security, and general livelihoods), but the port is currently all but out of commission. The dredge could get things moving, but it’s just been sitting in Mananjary apparently stuck in some sort of government/bureaucracy limbo, not helping anyone.
I’ve gone around in kind of a circle with this, but mostly I just hate to see a young generation that thinks rich white people are going to help them, and that it’s ok to just rely on that belief.