Malagasy Adventures

Amazon is Amazing

19 November, 2008 · 2 Comments

Maybe it’s being in Madagascar where the postal service is anything but reliable.  Where you have to pay the post office in order to pick up packages, where there isn’t a neighborhood mailman, where things take a month to get across the ocean, where mail often gets lost…

but I think that Amazon shipping is amazing.  I ordered a few Christmas gifts yesterday, and they will be arriving on Patrick’s doorstep today.  And that was the free Super Saver shipping (which it says takes 5-9 days).  As much as I think work and rules are extremely over emphasized in American culture… this is an example of American efficiency at it’s best.  Wow.

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The Small Joys

17 November, 2008 · Leave a Comment

Last night I went over to one of my coworkers house, along with a few of my favorite people from the équipe.  We grilled 3 whole chickens, and had head cheese (I had some, but I don’t really know what it is…), salad, Malagasy rum, and a cake I baked too.  10 of us were eating around their coffee table, and Rivo was in the corner with the electric piano facing us.  He played, and we all sang for a good 2 hours.  Malagasys can sing…can hardly get people together without hearing 3 part harmony.  I sang along with even the Malagasy songs I didn’t know, and Rivo played a whole bunch of American stuff too.  He even played “America the Beautiful” and our national anthem for me.  Towards the end, we started in on Christmas songs, since everyone knew them.  We all joked that the neighbors were probably checking their calendars wondering if a month got skipped.  It was just so wonderful to be surrounded by great people, happily making music together just for the fun of it.  Everyone was making jokes, laughing, singing, and having a high ol’ time.  Laughter and music are about all most of us need…

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What to do?

13 November, 2008 · Leave a Comment

Not Madagascar related, but I am torn about what to do with my hair.  It is too long, and hasn’t been trimmed since April.  When I get home, I will at minimum get it cut a little, but I have another idea too.  I watched the film Chocolat recently, and think that I could pull off Juliette Binoche’s hairstyle from it.  So, here’s a pic of my current (ratty) hair:

something must be done

something must be done

and now, a few of the lovely Juliette Binoche from the film Chocolat:

 

i wonder if johnny depp will whisper sweet nothings into my ear if i proceed with this haircut?

i wonder if johnny depp will whisper sweet nothings into my ear if i proceed with this haircut?

 

i could wear a headband/scarf on low maintenance days

i could wear a headband/scarf on low maintenance days

 

i really think this style might work for my hair type

i really think this style might work for my hair type

So…what do you think?

 

 

 

 

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And now, the news from Madagascar…

12 November, 2008 · 3 Comments

Where the lemurs enthrall, the people are strong, and the toilets are below average.

Driving to Ambalavao a few weeks ago, I saw this sign warning drivers to slow down before a dangerous curve right before a narrow bridge:

 

)

maybe such a menacing sign should be put up in walker on roads people drive too fast on - dad, time to send another letter to the mayor! :)

Also, I found an article being passed around via Joseph’s blog about world reactions to the election, and our newfound status as non-idiots.  The article did a good job of summing up my feelings about being abroad as an American, although I’ve certainly not spent as much time out of the states as the author.  Since my adult international experiences began in 2003, I’ve grown accustomed to apologizing for my country, telling people, “No, I don’t understand why we’ve made all of these bad decisions either!”, and in general rolling my eyes when discussions gravitated towards American politics.  I never had to resort to saying I was Canadian, or any other nationality for that matter, but I did often follow admitting American citizenship with an immediate dismissal of our president.  When I was teaching in France, often the first thing people would ask me was, “What do you think about Bush?”.  When I replied that I didn’t support him at all, and that I didn’t vote for him, that usually made me a much more credible person in their eyes.  Now, already, French people around here (even ones I just spoke to briefly on the train) have had nothing to say but words of congratulations and praise about last week Tuesday.  Regardless of what Obama does or does not do, with one nationwide decision, the world has forgiven us our blunders of the last 8 years.  Back home I’m sure that this difference isn’t felt as urgently, but I feel it, and I like it!  People like us again.

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Community-based Ecotourism in Andrambovato

9 November, 2008 · Leave a Comment

 

On Thursday-Friday, after election day euphoria, I took the train to Andrambovato, a village along the FCE, to check out their ecotourism hiking circuit for one of our success stories.  We did quite a long hike, up to the top of a cliff, and back down through the rainforest.  As far as wildlife goes, there were no lemurs, but it was an awesome circuit!  Money to enter the community managed forest is gradually going to help build a new school in the town. 
Looking up at the cliff we wound up on top of
Looking up at the cliff we wound up on top of 
Don top of aforementioned cliff - they don't do switchbacks here...it's straight up the mountain...
on top of aforementioned cliff – they don’t do swichbacks here…just straight up the mountain!

 

this spider is really neat - the little triangle on his back is supposed to make him look frightening to predators

this spider is really neat - the little triangle on his back is supposed to make him look frightening to predators

 

this one was just...huge...

this one was just...huge...

 

also huge

also huge

 

big black milipede

big black milipede

 

red and black millipede - like my use of of scientific names...?

red and black millipede - like my use of of scientific names...?

 

this chameleon looked just like the leaves he was sitting in

this chameleon looked just like the leaves he was sitting in

 

well camouflaged frog

well camouflaged frog

 

not as well camouflaged

not as well camouflaged

 

mongoose - normally nocturnal, but awake for some reason

mongoose - normally nocturnal, but awake for some reason

 

outside the borders of the community managed forest, people are still burning...

outside the borders of the community managed forest, people are still burning...

 

post-tavy

post-tavy

 

rice pounding in the village of andrambovato

rice pounding in the village of andrambovato

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Pride and Joy

8 November, 2008 · Leave a Comment

For the first time in awhile, I am proud of my country.  Now, before you go accusing me of being an unpatriotic anarchist or something, don’t think that means that I hate all that America’s accomplished.  I’m not proud of the direction America’s headed since at least the time I started voting.  I haven’t been proud of the international reputation we’ve acquired, or much of anything that our current administration has done.  

First, a recap of election day festivities:

On Tuesday, I could hardly concentrate on anything, but of course nothing had even begun in America yet for most of the day here.  After work, I headed over to Karen’s to help her bake and cook for the party on Wednesday, and I was pleasantly surprised to catch the election day Diane Rehm show while we were puttering around the kitchen that night.  If anything could make me feel at home and not like I was missing out, it was Diane talking to guests and listeners about their individual voting experiences etc.  We made pesto dip, 3 carrot cakes, 2 chocolate bundt cakes, and a giant vat of chili.  Once that was done, I began work on my Obama tank top, and continued listening to NPR election pregame until about 1:30 AM.  I got up around 5AM, and turned on NPR in time to hear them call Ohio.  Karen, the girls, and I headed to her satellite TV friend’s house with muffins and coffee just in time to see them call the whole election, and then to see both speeches.  I thought McCain’s speech was nothing but elequoent and gracious, and despite some nasty campaining he really took the high road.  It was a shame that his crowd booed everytime he congratulated Obama on anything.  

We watched the footage of Grant Park, eagerly awaiting Obama’s appearance.  During his speech, we all had tears streaming down our faces, along with much of the live audience.  It was moving on so many different levels…  Of course we especially appreciated his address to those of us in “forgotten corners of the world, huddled around radios etc..”.   After the speech and a little more footage, Karen and I went into town, high on the adrenaline to buy supplies for the party.  (because at that point, the party was on for sure!)  I then went to work to set up my computer to download footage of the speech to project onto a big screen at the party (which took about 4 hours, but did actually work!).  I got a notice from the post office that I had a package, and when I picked it up, what did it contain, but an Obama t-shirt from Patrick’s parents (along with some sweet treats)!  How perfectly timed…I also got a card from my parents, so that made it just a little more like Chirstmas day!  After picking up the package (which was SO much easier than I expected… the customs guy didn’t make me open it in front of them, and I only had to pay 11,000Ar, which is nearly half of what people have sometimes paid), Maia, Brendan (a peace corps volunteer who was in town) figured out how to get the video footage working with the projector etc, and we started decorating for the party.  It’s best described with photos I believe:

 

the banner we hung in the garden

the banner we hung in the garden

 

the voting booth - you had to vote to enter the party - karen photocopied her electronic absentee ballot!

the voting booth - you had to vote to enter the party - karen photocopied her electronic absentee ballot!

 

the t-shirt that arrived just in time...thank you medlands!

the t-shirt that arrived just in time...thank you medlands!

 

my hack embroidery job, started before the t-shirt arrived...

my hack embroidery job, started before the t-shirt arrived...

 

carrot cakes with cream cheese frosting (all American food at the party)

carrot cakes with cream cheese frosting (all American food at the party)

 

was it too much to decorate ella the pet tortoise?  i think not!

was it too much to decorate ella the pet tortoise? i think not!

Despite all of the hope about change that Obama brings, and the confidence that I do have in him to govern our nation, from an overseas perspective, it’s not a new president immediately rescuing us from all of our current problems that makes me the happiest.  It’s our global reputation.  At the victory party, there were a few Americans, and many French and Malagasy people.  They were all just as happy as we were.  Rivo received a text message from a friend in France – “On a gagné!  Vive l’amerique!”.   The whole world seems to have been pulling for Obama, and even before he takes office, they already have a different view of America.  Our global respect has already been restored, and to have every French person I’ve encountered since the election offer words of congratulations and excitement has been quite something.  I don’t naively hope that the financial crisis or war in Iraq will disappear with Obama’s inauguration.  Those are incredibly difficult problems that aren’t going away any time soon no matter who’s in charge.  But, I do believe that we can now be part of the world, rather than an independent entity seen as not giving a shit what allied nations have to say.  America has stood up and declared that they are fed up with the way our country has been managed in the last 8 (or even 20) years, and that we want to evolve.  We have declared in one voice, that race is no longer an issue here, and that the hard work of so many black Americans has culminated in breaking the final race barrier.  And all of these things, my friends, makes my eyes brim with tears, and my heart swell with pride.

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Election Eve/Day

4 November, 2008 · 1 Comment

Oh my gosh oh my gosh oh my gosh oh my gosh.  I don’t know if i’ve felt like this since Christmas when I was a little girl.  It’s strange being here – even though it’s November 4th, election day, the polls don’t even open until 4PM my time, and that’s on the eastern seaboard.  So, the polls won’t open in California until 7PM.  That means that when the polls close Pacific Time, it will be 7AM here.  At 7:30 AM, Karen and I are going to her friend’s house who has a satellite to watch results for awhile, so that should hopefully be timed ok.  I’m also sleeping over at Karen’s because they have satellite radio… that has NPR!  Yay!  I figure I’ll stay up at late as I feel awake to listen to all of the commentary.  

I keep remembering this day in 2004.  I spent a lot of time volunteering, doing phone banks, data entry, and canvassing,  during the months leading to the election.  Even though Kerry wasn’t half the candidate Obama is, I felt hopeful for the end of an era.  I went down to the Wealthy Theatre, where the GR Dems office organized a results watching soirée.  CNN was up on the big screen, the bartenders were very liberal with drinks for the volunteers, and there was a whole theatre full of like-minded people getting ready to celebrate.  As the night went on, the celebratory attitude lessened, and people started really worrying.  I distracted myself with meeting a cute boy, and went home early enough to still be hopeful that a miracle would happen during the night.  No miracle was to be had, and I went to class feeling dejected and betrayed.  I had a rehearsal with my accompanist, Robert, and we spent half of it talking.  We confessed we’d both been crying half the morning, and tried to lift our heavy hearts with some music making together.  i think I felt even more disconnected from and disappointed in the American people that day than I did after the 2000 election, my first time voting.  

Now though, I am quivering with excitement, fiercely anticipating being proud of something my country has done for the first time in a awhile.  If Obama wins, the rest of the world will begin to allow for the possibility that America isn’t 100% crazy and stupid.  His mere election would help to begin mending America’s shredded global reputation even before he takes office.  

I find it incredibly sad that his grandmother passed away the day before the election.  After reading Dreams From My Father, it’s evident that she played a huge role in raising Barack, and for her to miss the election by only a day seems like something out of a Greek tragedy.  

Over a month ago, I actually checked into to ordering an Obama T-Shirt to wear nearing election day, but there were two problems:  a) every shirt I liked was sold out, and b) shipping probably would have been exorbitantly priced here and likely not get here in time anyway, so I dropped the idea.  Karen is organizing a victory party (to be canceled if he loses) at her house tomorrow after work, and I’ve agreed to help out.  It started out having whoever she knew that was interested in the election over from some food, but has morphed into a real celebration.  We had a giant more-than-a-meter-squared banner with his logo made to hang in the garden, Maia and I are making a music playlist of Obama-supporting musicians to be on shuffle for the evening, we’re making carrot cake, chocolate cake, cookies, and chili, and downloading as much as possible of his acceptance speech and projecting it onto a screen, as well as showing the “Yes We Can” video from the campaign.  With all of this happening, I’ve decided I need an Obama shirt afterall.  I went into town to buy some embroidery floss this morning, and since I want to stay up late listening anyway, making an Obama shirt will give me something to do.  Well, embroidering his logo onto an existing shirt.  Yes, I am a huge dork.  But it’s funny how little things can make one feel at home, and not missing out after all.

Don’t eff this one up, America…

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Halloween silliness

2 November, 2008 · 1 Comment

 

The price tag says $150,000.00

The price tag says $150,000.00

 

it's not from a helicopter...but still...

there was no helicopter...but still...i'm a lipstick wearing pittbull moose hunter...

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Miora

31 October, 2008 · Leave a Comment

 

 Out of the Success Stories we’ve come up with, there is one talking about community managed ecotourism sites that have gotten started during the last few years.  The specific example one of the field agents took was a very new site that was just inaugurated in July.  Since it’s so new, there aren’t any photos, and most of the story is about how the financing was set up.  I thought that before finalizing this particular story, it might be useful for me to go test it out – sort of a tourist perspective as to whether the project is really a success.  So, it was helpful to work to get photos to add to the SS, and awesome for me to do a hike for free.  It’s a 17km circuit just outside Andringitra National Park, and climbs up through rainforest (which is not a national protected area, but is managed by the surrounding communities as part of a transfert de gestion (management transfer) process that encourages communities to conserve their forest areas), continues past a natural pool, up above the treeline, peaking just above 2000 meters before descending back down.  There’s a campsite after the descent starts, and overall it was a fantastic hike!  I saw lemurs, a chameleon, some cool bugs, cute lizards, and amazing panoramic views.  I was pretty hard though – hiking up steep terrain that goes up and down a lot carrying a 20lb pack is hard work!   My muscles were satisfyingly sore for the next day or two.  Overall, the whole ecotourism circuit is really well set up, and they’re got something very special to share with tourists and thus generate income.  However, it hasn’t been marketed, and nobody knows it’s there.  The directors of it say it’s a question of no tourists – they’re all on their way to Andringitra.  When I asked if they’ve distributed all of the brochures they have at tourism centers or anything though, they said no.  I’ve passed on the information to people here at work, and hopefully they’ll be able to help out a bit with spreading the word.  Really, I liked this circuit better than my visit to Ranomafana, and it was cheaper too!
)
notice the clouds…beneath me :)
this guy was really cool, just walking along right by the path.  you could see his little 2 pronged feet and his rotating eyes - seemed weird to me he wasn't in a tree though...

this guy was really cool, just walking along right by the path. you could see his little 2 pronged feet and his rotating eyes - seemed weird to me he wasn't in a tree though...

these guys are so friggin' cute!

these guys are so friggin' cute!

long tail!

long tail!

ready to jump

ready to jump

not a madagascar hissing cockroack.  just a giant cockroach.  i tried to let him crawl on my hand, but he was scared.

not a madagascar hissing cockroack. just a giant cockroach. i tried to let him crawl on my hand, but he was scared.

someone call the po-lice!  this rolly polly is on steroids!

someone call the po-lice! this rolly polly is on steroids!

just some perspective to show how big he was

just some perspective to show how big he was

sunset from up top

sunset from up top

these lizards are all over the place, in varying sizes

these lizards are all over the place, in varying sizes

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Wild Silk

30 October, 2008 · Leave a Comment

Ambalavao has various wild silk shops.  The one I visited is part of a women’s foundation, providing work to single women and widows.  The process of making silk was explained from start to finish – it’s really a lot of work, and it now makes sense to me that wild silk is so expensive.

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